Fashion Week evenings for Rodarte, Diesel and Shayne Oliver
Is it really New York Fashion Week? Many designers ditched this one, and for a while the holiday calendar looked pretty bleak. Thankfully, invitations started rolling in late last week. Here are some highlights from Friday.
A Rodarte retrospective
Instead of a fashion show, Rodarte revisited his greatest hits in a week-long exhibition, “The Art of Rodarte” at Spring Studios. It included illustrations of the crown Natalie Portman wore in the 2010 film, “Black Swan,” and a knitted leather dress from their Fall 2009 collection, inspired by Boris Karloff’s “Frankenstein.”
Opportunity: The February 11 conversation with Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the founders of Rodarte, led by Maude Apatow (star of “Euphoria”; daughter of Judd Apatow and Leslie Mann); followed by a muffled cocktail. It was also Kate Mulleavy’s birthday.
Bedroom: The sixth floor of Spring Studios (site of many fashion shows) has been transformed into an “immersive customer experience” with dresses on mannequins, holograms and video projections. Upstairs, during cocktail parties, huge black and white balloons say “Happy Birthday Kate.”
Dress: A mix of Zara tops, business suits and a few VIPs at Rodarte. “Sometimes she thinks it’s a permanent loan and it’s not,” comedian Jill Kargman said of the Rodarte dress her 18-year-old daughter, Sadie, loaned Rodarte. Ms Kargman added that she owned the black Rodarte top she wore.
Waiting for: The crowd also included several young actresses (Hari Nef, Rowan Blanchard, Melissa Roxburgh); various fashion editors; and Anthony Eisen, co-founder of Afterpay, the buy now, pay later app that sponsored the exhibit.
mood“I lived in California for a year and a half and the Rodarte Halloween party was one of three fun things that happened,” said Ms. Nef, who wore a black and white ruffled Rodarte dress under vintage fur. overcoat (coyote, she thought). How does this holiday compare? “People behave better,” she said.
Is Diesel on the rise? The Italian brand known for its high-end denim has opened a flagship store in SoHo in a bid, perhaps, to recapture its 1990s glory days. “Now is the time,” said Eraldo Poletto, general manager from Diesel North America. (Renzo Rosso, who founded Diesel in 1978, was not present.) “It’s about freedom and American values. We want to be back in the future.
Opportunity: The opening of the store at 122 Spring street, and an after-party to celebrate the latest collection from its creative director, Glenn Martens.
Bedroom: A two-story minimalist boutique on the corner of Spring and Greene Streets, lacquered in the brand’s signature red. The basement bar was a madhouse.
Waiting for: La La Anthony, former MTV VJ; model Alexandra Richards; and various rappers including Flo Milli, Saucy Santana and Maliibu Miitch, all of whom were outfitted by Diesel. Maliibu Miitch, who wore an open jacket with nothing underneath, loved her leggings. “Because they show my slipper,” she said.
mood: “Diesel is definitely back,” said a man who gave his name as Shiva Wolves. “They’re bringing the excitement back to New York, post-pandemic.” After further questioning, he revealed he was from Miami.
Shayne Oliver shook up the fashion world when he put his brand, Hood by Air, on hiatus in 2017. Now he’s back. On February 11, the fashion elite descended on The Shed at the Hudson Yards for a 10:30 p.m. performance that showcased the first looks from their eponymous new label.
Opportunity: It was the second of a three-night festival at The Shed produced by Mr. Oliver’s Anonymous Club, a studio that spans music, art and fashion.
Bedroom: The sixth-floor theater, which seats 500 people, was transformed into a black box, with a large scaffolding where mannequins descended a metal staircase and Eartheater, an instrumentalist, performed.
Waiting for: Hunter Schafer from “Euphoria”, Evan Mock from “Gossip Girl” and Mr. Oliver fans including Bethann Hardison, Antwaun Sargent, Ferdinando Verderi, artist Rachel Rose and Quil Lemons. There was a lot of black leather and skin, and everywhere you looked it seemed like gender and fashion references were blurred.
mood: The followers of Mr. Oliver’s fashion temple came away satisfied. “It’s a total work of art,” said Mr. Sargent, director of the Gagosian Gallery. “That’s what’s exciting about Shayne’s comeback. I’m thrilled that he’s taking all the space he wants. It’s so radical and that’s what this moment is. He’s kicking all the doors.